Over the past few years, I’ve been growing increasingly ambivalent towards huge, expensive architectural projects with big name design firms attached to them. Who are these buildings actually for? The Antilla, a 27-storey building in Mumbai that is apparently the world’s most expensive house, now sits empty most of the time because according to vastu (the Hindu version of feng shui), there aren’t enough east-facing windows, making it unlucky to inhabit. Maybe the owners of the building could move some of the city’s poor into it and hold banquets and film screenings for them, instead of letting it sit unused.

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If you want a fun night out without glam or attitude, then Hawaiian Shack is the place to be. The music catalogue boasts the trendiest retro hits from the eighties, luring you to sing-a-long at your table or bust out some karaoke upstairs so the entire floor can hear. I thought the little touches of Hawaiian decor were admirable, especially the unassuming boat-shaped bar illuminated by fluorescent blue and green lighting.

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I was recently exploring the nightlife culture of India while there for the Smirnoff Nightlife Exchange Project. But what I also got to see was the real city. Although the atmosphere is chaotic, it was fascinating to walk the Mumbai streets and meet the locals. Obviously, the first thing to strike your attention is the dire state of homelessness. Some people sleep on the pavement, some on the beach, some where they can; some even in prickled bushes under the bridges or with no clothes on. It makes you wonder what their story is and how they got there.

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