I was mesmerised by a small seal pup colony at Ohau Stream, just north of Kaikoura in New Zealand. The small Ohau stream is a playground for seal pups, who swim up to a pool at the base of a 30-metre waterfall while their mothers are out at sea hunting fish. The pups are completely at home in their nursery — undisturbed by tickled onlookers, who are offered a privileged glimpse of a carefree existence.

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Eating fresh crayfish is an institution in New Zealand, and it doesn’t get much better or fresher than from Nin’s Bin, roughly 20km north of Kaikoura on the east coast of the South Island. Since 1977, local fishermen have been delivering their daily catch to the back of this humble roadside caravan, where it’s boiled to perfection in spring water. Nin’s also has a few rustic tables, so you can enjoy your lunch while breathing in the chilly sea air and spotting fur seals. They serve up fresh mussels, and you can request your crayfish hot or cold. One hot one, please!