I went to France last year to visit a friend living in Paris. I took a side trip to Marseille and found La Passarelle. The food was simple, super-local (they have their own veggie and herb garden), and so well cooked. The furniture was mismatched, the menu was handwritten in a notebook, and the chef put on records of doo-wop songs. Amazingly, my favorite meal in France was at La Passarelle, not in Paris.