
Rincon, Puerto Rico
I recently took a trip to Puerto Rico where I spent most of my time in and around Rincon on the Northwestern end of the island. There were fantastic waves coming in from the Atlantic to the north that had surfers swarming like anxious bees around where we were staying, but the Caribbean side of the coast just a few miles down Route 413 was unbelievably calm and quiet, just a few Medalla-sipping souls dotting the beach with their frolicking dogs. The mofongo (an old African slave dish made from fried plantains and meat) we had in Old San Juan at a place called Raices was phenomenal, one of the most memorable dishes of my life despite the touristy atmosphere of the restaurant. Route 115 in Rincon, however, sported dozens of vendors on the side of the road selling fresh produce, and the man selling live spiny lobsters convinced us to cook our own meals for most of our time in the area. Simply steamed and served with roasted breadfruit, the lobsters were perfect, requiring no seasoning at all, their flesh already slightly salty from the ocean waters from whence they came.
Later, while waiting for fresh empanadas at a stand on 413, we eyed the one of the chickens roaming freely on the street, wondering what the etiquette was for nabbing one of the clucking birds on public property. In the end, we didn’t want to horrify our hosts by slaughtering a hen in their kitchen, so we let her be. A trip to an off-the-grid, solar-powered goat farm run by a Swiss couple was truly inspiring – there’s nothing like sipping fresh goat milk while staring at the goats that produced it munching away on tropical flora in a secluded valley. Drinks at the faux-colonial hotel The Horned Dorset were nice, but for my money, I’d rather just sit on a beach with a six-pack after a home-cooked meal of local ingredients. On the way back to San Juan on our last day, we stopped at a little shack on the highway to sample some roasted chicken and barbecued ribs served with boiled yucca and green bananas, which were vastly better than the meal we had at a much pricier place called La Terrazza later that evening in Durado. All in all, a fun and relaxing trip full of memorable food, and just enough of a taste of the island’s complicated history to make me want to know more.
Tagged: Puerto Rico, Rincon
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